A Whaley Bridge welcome: town eager for tourists to visit

After its dam drama, residents are home in the Peak District town. It’s also reopening for visitors, and offers them great walking, cycling and fine fish-and-chips

It has been a tough week for the businesses of Whaley Bridge, which was evacuated last Thursday amid fears that the Toddbrook reservoir, above the town, could burst its dam following torrential rainfall.

Residents and business owners were allowed back home on Wednesday, and shops, cafes and pubs are set to reopen by the weekend. They actively want people to come and visit, according to Martin Thomas, chair of the town council.

“The community of Whaley Bridge is looking forward to the return to normality over the next few days. The dam has now been made safe and an alternative pumping system installed to bypass the reservoir. Thanks to the work of the emergency services, there has been only relatively minor flooding, and the town is open to welcome visitors,” he said.

My husband lived in Whaley when we were first courting so I know it well, having swum in Toddbrook reservoir, drunk in most of the pubs and eaten far too many cakes at the Bakehouse. Here, then, is my very subjective guide to Whaley Bridge.

Peak District

Whaley Bridge is on the doorstep of the UK’s oldest national park – founded in 1951 –and has more affordable places to stay than within the Peak District itself. Springbank Guest House (en suite doubles from £80 B&B ) on Reservoir Road is right by the station, served by trains to Manchester or Buxton. The B&B has secure storage for bikes and an original Victorian bath and toilet dating from the 1890s. Plenty of locals also list their homes on Airbnb: cosy Carr Cottage has a woodburner to keep you warm in winter and a garden to enjoy in the summer.

Cycling

Whaley Bridge is a great base for cyclists, whether you are a dirty mountain biker or a Lyrcra-clad roadie, though you’ll need your climbing legs. Unless you take the towpath along the Peak Forest canal (good for families), the only nice way out of Whaley is up. Long Hill is a gradual climb over to Buxton; Eccles Road is a lungbuster that goes up to Eccles Pike and down into either Chinley (in which case: go to the Old Hall pub) or Chapel-en-le-Frith. The hardest road climb in the area is probably the dastardly Cowlow Lane. It starts just outside Whaley in the hamlet of Combs and ramps to a 21.4% gradient in its meanest section.

Off-road, there are great trails by Erwood and Fernliee reservoirs, which lead towards Buxton or over to Kinder Scout. If you are a cycling masochist, check out the cobbled climb up Start Lane from the Kettleshulme direction. Whaley is also blessed with an excellent independent bike shop: the Bike Factory, opposite the Co-op on Buxton Road.

Bridge Bakehouse

Opened by two sisters in 2013, the Bakehouse has become a Whaley institution. Its cherry bakewells are, in my opinion, better than any on sale in actual Bakewell; the grilled cheese sarnies make the perfect salty gooey lunchtime treat and its sausage rolls are the stuff of legend. It is mainly a takeaway place but there is seating outside, with heaters and blankets for the colder months.
42a Market Street, thebridgebakehouse.co.uk

Goyt wines

Much more than just an off-licence, Goyt wines has a wine bar upstairs that’s open Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Book ahead for Chippie Tea Night every Friday each summer: it’s possible to bring in fish and chips from the Fryery, a few doors down, and wash it down with a glass of champagne, a bottle of local craft beer or pretty much anything else you fancy.
1 Canal Street, goytwines.com

Finders Keepers

Londoners will not believe the prices at this bric-a-brac shop on the main Buxton Road. Think armchairs for £30, perfect for that upholstery project; G Plan sideboards for a fraction of the cost in other antique shops; mahogany dinner tables and much more. The charity shop next door, which raises money for the Blythe House Hospice, is distinctly better than average, too.
3 Market Street, finderskeepersuk.org.uk

The Fryery

Whaley is blessed with two chip shops but I like the Fryery best. It stays open later and its curry sauce is stupendous – and offered hot or not (get the spicy one). It’s a proper chippy, with cans of shandy, and dandelion & burdock, and pickled eggs in jars on the counter.
5 Canal Street, on Facebook

Jarva Gallery

This is a great little shop selling prints and originals from local artists, all framed in-house. It also has a fine selection of jewellery and gifts.
4 Market Street, jarvagallery.com

Memorial Park playground

I’ve spent many happy afternoons with my 10-year-old stepdaughter at this superlative playground, which is right underneath Toddbrook reservoir. Don’t let that put you off now the dam is safe; you’ll miss out on the zipwire otherwise!
Reservoir Road

Pubs

Whaley is known locally as a drinkers’ town, and you are spoilt for choice for a pint. The Goyt Inn (8 Bridge Street) is the most traditional local pub, particularly cosy in winter. The tiny Whaley Nook Tap Rooms sells craft beer from a number of local brewers, and the Cock is best for a family pub lunch.

Family-friendly walks

There are lots of lovely walks right from Whaley Bridge for even the littlest legs. Head towards Taxal, by the River Goyt, where there are plenty of paddling spots. The graveyard at Taxal church is often visited by a friendly donkey, who always appreciates a carrot or an apple. Head through the woods towards the derelict Taxal Lodge on the magnificently named Linglongs Road and see if you can spot the fairy tree, where superstitious locals have left gifts for the elves.

A women-only solidarity bike ride to Whaley Bridge – to eat at the Bridge Bakehouse – starts from Deli No 29 in Romiley at 9am on Saturday 10 August

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